BIG (AND BEAUTIFUL) IN 2013
From the latest make-up innovations to the newest cult products, I’ve been busy talking to the beauty insiders to reveal the hot trends and beauty must-haves for this year.
In terms of skincare, there’s a new hybrid in town. Referred to by the experts as ‘natural-science’, these new products merge the gentleness of natural and organic products with the scientific clout of premium, lab-based brands.
Organic beauty brand Melvita, for instance, has teamed up with Dr Elizabeth Devillard, a leader in the field of Cosmetogenomics. The result is a new patented 3 Honey Complex, which tackles the causes of dry skin, and which will be found in the hi-tech-natural Apicosma Face Care collection, which was launched in February.
Premium Parisian brand Sisley, meanwhile, have long been pioneers of natural-science products. Their new detoxifying night treatment, Botanical D-Tox, (£134) contains a rice peptide extract – a marriage of plant-based ingredients with advanced know-how.
At Willow Organic, based in Kent, founder Sue Stowell also recognises the trend. “Willow Organic is applying scientific methods and chemistry to natural and organic products, thereby creating a hybrid of the two ideals and giving effective skincare which won’t deplete the skin’s natural resources. Willow’s new Rose & Manuka honey combination, formulated by scientists but using traditional tried and tested products, is a prime example of how old and new can work in tandem.”
Last year we couldn’t get enough of Blemish Balms (or BB creams), those skin-smoothing, brightening wonders. This year will see the second-generation of the BB cream being introduced – the CC cream, short for Colour or Complexion Corrector. Already huge in Asia, the CC cream is a more refined BB, giving greater coverage, is lighter in texture and has more nourishing properties. In short, a combination of skincare and makeup.
Rachel Kum’s eponymous range, a bestseller in Hong Kong and Singapore, has a cult following with make-up artists and has just launched into the UK. “The CC cream rocks a heavier, more cosmetic-like coverage that actually has a lighter texture. Its formula is extremely easy to blend, yet offers a smooth and even-toned base that looks like a second, flawless skin,” she says.
Also new on the market in the UK are versions by Clinique and L’Oreal Paris.
Newby Hands, beauty expert and editorial director of feelunique.com, agrees that it will be the next big thing for 2013: “I see a blurring between where skincare ends and make-up begins, with hard-working products like CC creams coming onto the market. Decleor, Shiseido and Elizabeth Arden are all planning to launch ‘next-generation’ BB creams this year.”
Furthermore, beauty houses, such as Chanel (which already sells a version in Asia), Smashbox and Dr Jart have also confirmed they will be launching CC creams over the next few months. You heard it here first.
Long gone are the days when ‘one cream fits all’ was enough. These days, we want specific products that target a multitude of problems, such as adult acne, sagging skin and hyper-pigmentation caused by sun damage.
Dr Rita Rakus, a leading dermatologist, has noticed a shift in what women are concerned about. “Pigmentation, for example, is a major skin care worry for millions of women across the world. It has taken primary position as the number one signifier of age and it’s definitely the reason that laser treatments, such as Fraxel, are increasingly used to diminish the appearance of sun damage and dark spots.”
Of course, most of us don’t necessarily want to go and see a doctor for our problems, so they’ve decided to come to us instead, with the big dermatologist names leading the way with a tranche of ‘problem-specific’ remedies.
Harley Street surgeon Dr Yannis Alexandrides’s 111 SKIN’s line is currently working on a new cream to combat pigmentation, with the working name White Radiance Cream.
Recently hitting our shelves was the new brand Dr Jackson, whose natural products have taken 19 years of research to bring to light. The first of which was the Signature Cream 01 (£80), a moisturiser that promises to protect from the sun’s rays, reduces liver spots, and tightens the skin.
Aurélie Guyoux, the scientific director at Etat Pur, has also noticed a growing demand for targeted products: “People are mostly worried about wrinkles, and specifically loss of density in the skin. In response to this, Etat Pur will be releasing new anti-ageing pure actives, like Centella Asiatica, in a range of products, which target sagging skin around the neck and décolleté areas.”
Meanwhile, the new M&S Beauty Hall (marksandspencer.com/beauty), which is delighting beauty junkies with its knack of stocking the latest must-have before anyone else, is also lining its shelves with ‘zoned-in’ products. Launching this month, watch out for Filorga’s Time Filler (£54), a wrinkle correction cream and skyn ICELAND’s White Cloud Spot Corrector (£39.50), a lightening complex to combat dark patches and acne scars.
Ditch your straighteners, for when it comes to hair in 2013, it’s all about the relaxed vibe. Seen at both Marc Jacobs’ and Thakoon’s Spring/Summer shows was ‘slept-in’ hair, dual textured styles (smooth on the scalp going into wavy lengths) and rough braiding.
Celebrity hairdresser Leo Bancroft predicts effortless hair will be all the rage: “Laid back hairstyles will be on trend in 2013. Think, bed hair, loose waves, low ponytails and knots. The catwalks sported ‘real girl’ hair, styles that can be created by the everyday woman. A twist on traditional waves is to mattify hair. This can be achieved with mattifying powders and salt sprays for sexy, bed hair that is still glamorous and on trend.”
Adam Reed and Paul Percival of cult London salon Percy & Reed agree that a soft tousled texture, as seen at the new season House of Holland shows, will be the most sought-after styles for 2013, recommending using a dry conditioner to add gloss.
But when it comes to colour, says Gemma Moore, senior colourist at Jo Hansford, it’s all about definition and impact. “Highlights will be taken to the next level in 2013 with the introduction of the ‘Double Hit Tip’ technique. Suitable for absolutely all hair types, it gives a wow-factor from root to tip without over-use of colour.”
Meanwhile, Jamie Stevens, British Hairdresser of the Year 2012, predicts the return of the pony-tail, softened by pulling wisps out around the face, and muted colour. “This year will be more about subtle tones rather than depth, so we will see luminous golds and muted honey shades, creating glossy and expensive looking blondes.”
The one look that dominated the catwalks for Spring/Summer was the strong brow, statement lip and dewy skin with Jason Wu using the catch-phrase ‘bold beauty’ to inspire his make-up artists behind the scenes.
Mei Rees, senior artist at Shu Uemura, also predicts the use of bright eyeliners and mascaras. “We will see a lot of jewelled tones, metallics and electric coloured eyeliners and mascaras. The lip is dominantly matte in texture, in bright oranges, pinks and reds. We will see a contrast in natural make up focusing on gorgeous flawless skin, versus glam, silver eyes, with extra long lashes.”
Chanel’s collection for spring-summer echoes this with metallic silver eyeshadows, glossy skin and nude nails. While Lancome’s new In Love range, fronted by Emma Watson, is full of vibrant shades of neon pink, coral, turquoise and violet. Inspired by an urban landscape – think the neon glimmer of city signs and the pop colours of street-art – its highlights include a tangerine-hued nail polish and jade kohl.
And channelling sci-fi at Donna Karan, leading make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury called her dramatic MAC fuschia liner and lashes “classic with a twist”.
The same colour palette for eyes was also touched upon at Estee Lauder. Its make-up director Tom Pechaux used new Shadow Paints in Extreme Emerald, nude lips and barely-there blush at Derek Lam’s New York show. But it was the eminently flattering caramel-coloured Pure Colour Nail Lacquer in So Vain that was the lust-after nail shade of the shows.
In fact, caramel was the shade of choice all over at Chloé when make-up artist Lucia Pieroni layered on beiges, shells, taupes and blushes to create a tonal face.
According to Michael Ashton, Adele’s make-up artist, strong brows and ‘popping’ lips are the key to appearing ‘of the moment’. “Create a defined brow shape by outlining with a malleable brow pencil, then brush with a clear gel before sweeping through shadow,” he advises. “It’s the ultimate technique to achieve brows even Brooke Shields would be proud of. When it comes to lips, however. We will be seeing the full spectrum of reds from cherry berry stains right up to high-octane opaque crimsons. When set against clean photo-finish skin it is the perfect modern classic!”
Talking of which, it’s clear to see that combining all these trends gives a thoroughly classic look, vamped up a few notches with modern technology. Use the new skincare innovators and you’ll have a photo-finish complexion, make sure hair is glossy but not ‘done’ and make-up is kept simple yet effective. It’s easy when you know how.
TOP FIVE NEW LAUNCHES FOR SKIN AND HAIR
Rachel K Original CC Cream, £20. Soon to be available in the UK (rachelkcosmetics.com), this CC cream has been feted by beauty insiders since it launched in Asia last year. Containing white tea and deep-sea water, it’s packed in anti-oxidants and leaves skin beautifully soft. It also brightens, diminishes pigments, gives good coverage and an even texture to the skin.
Gatineau Renew 7 Laser Serum, £49. This re-surfacer duplicates the effects of laser treatment in a bottle, smoothing the complexion and filling lines. Containing marine extracts and hyalauronic acid spheres, the seven-day resurfacing treatment is one of two new ultra-targeted skincare products from Gatineau, which address specific needs with high concentrations of latest-generation active ingredients.
Elizabeth Arden Prevage, £160. This may have a hefty price tag, but it also might keep you looking young forever. This new super serum contains a whole cocktail of ingredients to target cellular inflammation, a primary cause of ageing. New out this month, it has clinically proven to immediately improve the appearance of deep wrinkles, skin firmness and luminosity. We like.
Toni&Guy Creative Style Spray Wax. Toni&Guy’s new range is a new concept for hair-care, with products that are led by hair fashion rather than problem solving. This light wax gives texture and definition for perfect ‘bed-hair’.
Alterna Retexturising Protein Repair, £33. This deeply hydrating treatment for damaged hair is one of the new products from Alterna’s latest Caviar Repair collection. It contains caviar extract, vitamin c and marine botanicals which leaves hair incredibly shiny and manageable – ideal to achieve glam, tousled tresses.
TOP FIVE NEW LAUNCHES FOR MAKE-UP
Avon’s Perfect Kiss Lipstick in Berry Smooch, £8.50. Out this month is the new lipstick range from Avon. It has 24 shades, but it is this rich berry shade that’s bang-on-trend for 2013. As a bonus the lip colours also contain avocado and coconut oils. The result? Kissable lips.
Lancome Kohl in Love, Jade Crush, £16. This intense turquoise is this season’s must-have (it also comes in a gorgeous deep blue). It’s a creamy formula and rich in pigment, so it glides on for electrifying eyes.
Aerin Floral Illuminating Powder, £45. Part of a limited edition spring range from Aerin Lauder’s brand, this gorgeous subtle blush has a soft rose scent and gives skin a gentle radiance. Six soft pastels shades swirl together to add a fine dusting of pinky-nudes.
Smashbox Lip Enhancing Gloss £14.00. Perfect your pout with this glassy gloss. Taken from Smashbox’s limited edition spring Love Me collection, a collaboration with LA street artist Curtis Kulig, renowned for his ‘Love Me’ tag. The Charm Me bubblegum pink is just the thing to channel a pop-art vibe.
MAC Winter Pursuit Mineralize Eye Shadow £16.50. Get your hands on this limited edition shadow while you can. MAC’s Apres Chic Make-Up collection, which launched in January, is all about flawless skin with deep-colour accents. Shade in lids with this gorgeous coppery-grey metallic to reference a futuristic look.
This feature was originally written for the Jan/Feb issue of Spa Secrets, see it here